blood’s a rover

11 hours, 2 pretzels, 1 bockwurst and 6 beers in Dusseldorf, Germany

Brianne and I are traveling around the world, but we are doing so without purchasing round-the-world tickets. Instead we simply keep an eye on ticket prices in the months leading up to our next move and buy each leg as we go. While we were still in Australia we found a great deal on a flight between Bangkok, Thailand and Dusseldorf, Germany, so we bought them. But since our actual first destination in Europe was Barcelona, Spain, we also had to buy tickets on an inexpensive hopper flight between Germany and Spain.

The flight itinerary we ended up with grounded us in Dusseldorf from 7 p.m. one night to 6 a.m. the following morning, so we devised a mission: We would store our bags at the airport, catch a train into the city, and then engage in a celebratory pubcrawl to mark our arrival in Europe, returning to the airport sometime that night to catch a few hours of sleep before jetting off to Spain.

If we were going do it right, though, we knew we’d have to brief ourselves about our target. Luckily we discovered Ron Pattinson’s Dusseldorf Pub Guide, which provided us with an exhaustive overview of the best and the rest that the city had to offer. Our trust in Ron’s opinion was bolstered by the presence of diggy little comments like “if you want to know a cool place to drink Corona straight from the bottle, I suggest that you look elsewhere” and also the fact that only a true beer nut would create a personal website that was so passionate and comprehensive.

It was just a coincidence that we were going to be stranded in Dusseldorf, but we were thrilled to learn that the city is one of the best places in Europe to go for good beer, and most famous for a type of copper colored, hoppy beer known as Alt.

The home of Alt in Dusseldorf is an aptly named area of town known as the “Altstadt”, which we were told by several locals is “the longest bar in Europe” because of the incredible number of pubs wedged into such a compact space, nestled between the central train station and the snaking path of the Rhine river.

Using Ron’s guide, I created our short list of pubs to visit. Actually, the Pub Guide’s paragraph under the subheading “Which Is The Best Alt?’ was our short list:

“A question I always ask myself on visits to the city is “which is the best alt?”. It speaks volumes about my innate indecisiveness that I am, to this day, unable to provide you with a definitive answer. One day, I’m convinced that Füchschen is top dog. Next visit, the Uerige beer is such a delight that I have to revise my opinion. On a particular day, Schlüssel will hit the spot so precisely that I can’t imagine any other beer ever matching it. Other times, nothing can surpass a glass of Schumacher. Go there, try the beers and see if you can help me resolve this riddle.”

Those muck muck names with their umlauts and the prospect of hearty German food and strong, authentic beer had me tingling with excitement during our entire LTU flight.

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(By special request of Uncle Seth)

Introduction

Michael “The Beer Hunter” Jackson once suggested that Portland, Oregon deserved the title of Beer Capital Of The World because it is home to more breweries in one city than any other, even Cologne, Germany. I feel fortunate to have started drinking beer only after moving to Portland- it was a great introduction to local pub and craft brewing culture, and just one of many things that makes Portland such a special place.

Although we aren’t cataloging all the beers we try with the same dedication as we are with wine, we still believe that comparing and contrasting the same thing (food, animal life and architecture are some other options) as it has developed in different locations is a wonderful way to get the most out of traveling. With that in mind, we will try to present an overview of the variety and quality of the beer that is available in each country that we visit.

History

In addition to Captain James Cook landing and claiming New Zealand for Great Britain in 1769, he was also apparently responsible for New Zealand’s first beer- he ordered it to be made in the belief that it’s nutritional value would help combat the scurvy that was rampant during long voyages at sea.

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Today was one of the first days in Oregon that really felt like Fall. The wind carried a chill that no fleece could resist, and after dinner while staring up at yet another cotton candy sunset, Brianne and I noticed one more indication that a new season had arrived: we both wanted dark beer. Deschutes Brewing had just what we were looking for. Brianne chose their Black Butte Porter, while I decided to include a couple of bottles of their Obsidian Stout. They hit the spot perfectly.

Deschutes’ Obsidian Stout is named as much for its shiny black color as for the gigantic (700 acre) obsidian flow located just southeast of Bend, Oregon, where the beer is made. I should of mentioned it in my earlier post, but that same place is probably where all the obsidian on our property originated.

This beer’s flavor has far more dark chocolate and charred coffee notes and is less minerally than that most famous of stouts, Guinness. Obsidian Stout also makes a wonderful dessert beer, especially at room temperature and accompanied by a thick brownie covered in chocolate sauce. Most people’s experience with stouts begins and ends with Guinness, but this beer is nothing like that. It’s less… utilitarian?

Don’t get me wrong, I like Guinness, and I plan on drinking a lot of it while we’re in Ireland. Likewise, I feel that the limited time we have left in Oregon should be spent savoring all of the things that makes this place special- great local products, abundant natural beauty, and the comfort of being at home.

In an unexpected display of awesomeness, Full Sail Brewing decided to show their appreciation for our appreciation by sending us some Full Sail gear! We are both very grateful. I will wear my sweet new jersey with pride everywhere we ride this summer, and the navy blue hoodie is a real boost to Brianne’s thuggery.

The Bikes

Like a trailer for a movie we’d been waiting all winter for, last Sunday was a sneak preview of the great summer still to come. Brianne and I went on our first mountain bike ride of the season, at Post Canyon just west of Hood River, Oregon. It was a beautiful day, and the trails were excellent- challenging in spots but equally rewarding, perfectly groomed and easy to explore. I really enjoyed seeing Brianne build confidence in herself and her bike, and it was nice to spend so much time together. Despite the perfect weather we only met about 8 other riders, and everyone was as friendly and helpful as we try to be.

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“Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
-Benjamin Franklin

In addition to being one of the best craft breweries in Oregon (or anywhere else), Rogue Brewery offers a free half yard of beer (about 2.5 pints, see below) and a free t-shirt if you visit on your birthday. While I would never consider visiting Denny’s for a Continue Reading…